Installing Underfloor Heating in a Garage

Want to create a livable, cosy space in a garage or cellar? Cableflor’s underfloor heating kit is ideal for garages and cellars because it is easy to install yourself, can be changed or moved into another room if you’re relocating and is a cost effective underfloor heating solution.

Here’s how we installed underfloor heating to create an office space in this garage.

Firstly it’s important to lay something insulated between a solid concrete flooring and the heated cable so that the heat isn’t lost through the floor. We were installing Cableflor in a garage so we laid down a damp proof membrane and then some insulation boards to retain the heat.

We then made marks on the floor where the heating cable will run. To do this we laid down Cableflor across the floor and made a mark in the centre of each channel. You can also do this by measuring 50mm away from the wall and making a mark and then mark each 100mm interval to the other side of the wall.

Then we repeated this process on the pposite side of the wall so that we had a guide of where to lay the cables

This is a good time to mark out any obstacles such as fixed furniture or fridges so that you don’t lay the heating cable beneath them. We drew a line around these to show where not to lay the cable.

Then we started to lay the cable, leaving the end of the cable which is black to be fed into the thermostat and laying the blue cable up and down the room. We pinned it along the marks so that the cable runs under the channels in the Cableflor tiles.

We placed the thermostat close to a power source and 1.5m up the wall. We got it connected by a professional electrician before laying the cable.

The loose cable makes it easy to go around the obstacles we marked out, so that we only heat the part of the floor we need to.

We laid the second cable in the kit from the thermostat down to the first channel of the Cableflor tiles. This is a temperature sensor, which tells you the temperature of the floor.

Once we laid the cable up and down the floor 10cm apart, ensuring the cable was pulled tight as we pinned it, we were ready to lay the Cableflor tiles. It was quick and easy to place the Cableflor tiles over the cable in metre square sheets, tearing off excess rows. It is important to ensure that the cable runs in the channels of each tile, which is easy as we measured where to lay the cable.

The arrows on the tiles helped us lay the tiles ensuring they all faced the same direction. Cableflor tiles don’t need to be stuck together, the smart design secures them together simply by clicking each sheet to the next. Two sides of the tile have tabs and the other two have slots, so that to remove them you need to twist the tile, making them impossible to lift up once laid.

To fit the shape of the room we tore off rows to get a tight fit around the walls. We covered the entire floor, even the area that didn’t have a heating cable so that the floor had a smooth surface.

The system is very quick to lay – the area in the photos is 3.4m x 4m and it took about an hour and a half to fit the heating cable and less than an hour to fit the Cableflor.

No cement or levelling compound is required and no special tools or skills needed, simply lay Cableflor on top of the heating cable and you have a level surface to lay a floor covering of your choice on top. We recommend using Karndean Loose Lay, which is a semi-rigid floor vinyl which comes in planks for a wood, stone or textile finish. It has good thermal properties and a long warranty and is very easy to fit.

We checked the heating cable worked before laying our floor covering on top. We used Karndean on our floor, using two finishes to create a luxury feel to the floor. We laid it out in rows, ensuring it fit tight to the walls. It doesn’t need to be stuck to the floor as its backing grips to Cableflor tiles. As this is a semi-permanent environment, Karndean was ideal as it can be lifted and reconfigured or moved into another room once finished.

When laying it down, we easily trimmed the planks to size by scoring the back and bending it to snap it. At the end of each row we used the rest of the plank to start, in order to offset the planks for a natural finish.

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